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Gastón Acurio: "Recognition comes from competing with yourself".
With the humility that he has always defended, Gastón Acurio gives us the antidote to the individual ego that taints the purest concept of cuisine.
He was the first to recognise the need to recover rural and regional cuisine and, above all, to give value to the producers who make it possible. In a sincere and emotional interview, Benjamín Lana, director of Vocento Gastronomía, extracts from the genius of Gastón Acurio very philosophical concepts that have marked his life and which have undoubtedly contributed to making the Mixtura fair a before and after in Peruvian cuisine. "We were inspired by Madrid Fusión to bring together in the same space and time the sentiments of a generation of chefs, producers and entrepreneurs who saw cuisine as an opportunity to dream and grow", and although Latin America has tried to do the same, it has not succeeded. The reason? "All countries have a great diversity and celebrate their gastronomy with pride, but for it to become a movement, you need chefs who have the ability to renounce fame, vanity and pride and put themselves in the place of others to build a common dream that benefits everyone".
A maxim that is particularly relevant in these times of a culinary elite that competes more for rankings and positions than for serving its customers. "Every time is different, and in this time we may need to know how to turn problems into opportunities", referring to communication and the enormous bombardment of information that sows uncertainty among young people who do not know how to stand out. For Acurio, this phenomenon "puts the chef in all of us to sleep and makes him forget his real mission, which is to make the people who eat his food happy. The important thing is to realise that recognition comes from competing with yourself, trying to do things a little better every day, taming your weaknesses and becoming a better person".
Humility in the relationship with the producer
Another of Acurio's many successes has been the visibility of the invisible small producers who are also fundamental links in the chain. Mixtura has also been a great catalyst in this respect, as it has allowed them to gain self-awareness and respect for their craft, which has also improved their economy and, consequently, their viability. In this respect, the master believes that "restaurants should be vehicles for giving producers the visibility and value they deserve, based on a two-way dialogue that is never based on price, but on the respect that both parties feel for the products".
Lastly, given that the world of small restaurateurs is a world of lone wolves, Gastón Acurio reiterates that the key is always attitude. "The most important thing is not to have an appetite for power or recognition, but when they come, to know how to thank them in the most sincere and humble way. Then, from that privileged position, be aware that it is time to give it back, accepting that it is not forever, and prepare for the arrival of those who will occupy it in the future, building a common agenda that will make us stronger". Thank you, Maestro, for convincing us once again that cooking will always be a weapon with a future.